No timetable exists for the ferry across the Caspian Sea from Alat (Azerbaijan) to Kuryk (Kazakhstan): the ship sails when the deck is full and the wind conditions permit. The duration of the crossing varies from a day to a week, as the ferries can only dock in good weather and the Caspian Sea is notorious for strong winds and rough seas. We accordingly braced ourselves for a long wait at the port as well as seasickness, filthy toilet facilities and poor food on the ship.
By the whim of the wind
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