Only two hours by bicycle away from Samarkand we were already at the border to Tajikistan. The first impressions of the new country were great: good roads, the wonderful view of the Fann Mountains, English speaking young women who talked to us at the tea stop, two fresh breads from the baker’s family who took selfies with us… We were excited, felt comfortable and welcome!
Uzbekistan
Along the historic Silk Road in Uzbekistan
From Nukus it was not far to Khiva, the first historic city on our route along the ancient Silk Road. We crossed the Amudarya River on a wobbly pontoon bridge and rumbled for two days on potholed roads through the Khoresm Oasis. The roads were lined with mulberry trees, (cotton) fields were tended by hand, and many children waved cheerfully at us.
By the whim of the wind
No timetable exists for the ferry across the Caspian Sea from Alat (Azerbaijan) to Kuryk (Kazakhstan): the ship sails when the deck is full and the wind conditions permit. The duration of the crossing varies from a day to a week, as the ferries can only dock in good weather and the Caspian Sea is notorious for strong winds and rough seas. We accordingly braced ourselves for a long wait at the port as well as seasickness, filthy toilet facilities and poor food on the ship.